Friday, October 10, 2008

Stanislaus Climbing Weekend

Trip Report - Climbing/Camping at Spicer Terraces
Spicer Reservoir, California
September 27-28, 2008

CJ belaying Eric on the off-width

We had the lovely opportunity to go on a brief climbing trip with some pals. Dan, Shenoa, CJ, Jackie, Eric and I all met up in the Stanislaus Forrest, near Bear Valley, and we had a blast. It was "camp for free" weekend, and we were camped near deer hunters and drunk teachers. The weather was amazing, and the company was right.

Shenoa Climbing the finger jam-lie back

On day one, we headed over to Spicer terraces, and took our chances with some crack climbs. The others tackled a challenging half width crack, and a finger crack with a lieback, while I focused on climbing the 5.7 crack in the middle of the terraces. While watching everyone cringe and yell on the half width, I realized it was most likely not at my level of climbing, just yet. I learned how to repel again, and used a prussic for the first time. Why would I have done it any other way? Our day was completed by a nice camp fire, chili, and the drunk teachers offering us their strong margaritas.

Dan on the 5.7 crack

Day two was a little less organized because of time restraints, but it was still enjoyable. The gang headed out to box canyon, and we found some great climbing. Eric got to lead a sport climb for the first time, and I mock led it! Some of the crew didn't get to climb because we ran out of time, but it was exciting to find a new destination for climbing in the Sierras! At the end of the day, CJ, Jackie, Eric, and I went to Hell's Kitchen, and did a little bouldering. We enjoyed our late lunch on a big rock, and watched some storm clouds rush in. It started to rain after an hour or so, and we decided it was a good time to end our trip there.

Jackie bouldering while the rain clouds roll in

Besides some of the time restraints, and the speeding ticket Eric got on the way down the mountain, this was a pretty successful trip. The Sierras are an unpredictable place, but also a very beautiful place. It's great to live so close to epic climbing locations. Next stop, Yosemite Valley!

This is what I call the torso jam

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Stanislaus Climbing


Shenoa said...

Wow, that sucks about the speeding ticket! I saw them on the way down and was feeling lucky that I didn't get nabbed. Thanks again for getting this going, it was some fantastic climbing!

Tio Stinky said...

The sports climb you did in Box Canyon is Sweet Sophia 5.4 Here is my daughter (7) doing her first lead on it. Just after she helped me put it in.

Eric said...

Thanks Tio! I thought it seemed easy. We thought it was maybe 5.6, but I'm pretty unfamiliar with friction at this point.

Tio Stinky said...

this link may work

Eric said...

Thanks! Found it, had to cut and paste. Not sure if I can "allow" links or not. tinyurl might be a good option

(oops looks like it allows them but doesnt auto-create... gotta use an "a href="" tag)

Tio's picture is HERE